Chiaroscuro is the use of strong contrasts between light and dark, usually bold contrasts affecting a whole composition. It is also a technical term used by artists to achieve 3 dimensional volume. What better place than to explore this technique of the light side and the dark side other than in fashion. Designing with a 'chiaroscuro' attitude of light and dark can bleed into many areas for effect. In terms of color, we obviously have strong contrast created utilizing black and white. Fabrications are another element which can give strong opposing statements. Kid white leather paired against black latex; clear plastic and black PVC. Imagery is another source. Hard against soft, open verses closed, revealed against restrained. And then we have the sexuality in which fashion can ignite. The light and dark of it. The bareness of skin although harnessed. The femininity revealed but restrained. Opposites do attract to create high impact both in art as well as on the runway.
The LAST Word
Draping on a mannequin employs the same principle as draping on a last.
My first introduction to the 'ART' of draping literally began from the ground up, with shoe design and construction. It was here I discovered the treasured lasts, the foundation for all shoemaking. For on top of these venerable forms is where and how gorgeous footwear is born. My fascination was that the last was something I could sculpt on or manipulate fabric upon. To be able to stretch, pleat, bunch or ruffle fabric was my nirvana. That fabric could be hounds tooth wool and leather [as pictured above] or any other material. I've draped shoes in straw, suede, patent leather, pvc even elastic! Whether a designer sketches their designs by hand as Mr. Blahnik so beautifully does or they are designed on the computer, eventually it's on the last that the patterns are drafted and the actual shoe produced. From Mr. Louboutin to Mr. Blahnik the LAST is the last word.
KULTURE KLUB
Jamie's Kulture Klub of French/African/punk
Read MoreWave Hill Inspires
Berries, satin wrapped roses, silk petals, crystals, organdy, shredded ribbon
Read MoreA Ribbon in the Sky
raspberry charmeuse/chiffon/Swarovski sunflower streamer gown
Read MoreThe ORNAMENTAL Self
S/S 2016 update: The idea may have originated pre- Cleopatra but to wear objects which identify who we are and what our inner nature is, is a beautiful expression of freedom, joy and hope. Such have been the discoveries on New York's Spring/Summer catwalks. Whether it's jeweled face masks via Givenchy, 60's bouffant hair-do's a-la-Jeremy-Scott, or Thom Browne boaters with upright pigtail there is power in clothing and objects which we use to glorify our beings and tell our hidden story. This is the goal of fashion and the freedom of expression. These articles, whether of clothing, fragments of something representative only to ourselves, found objects, disregarded decorations, or personal creations of our creative madness call our name and desire to possess an audience. When we cross the line of questioning our capacity to handle newness, exaggeration, or release ourselves from the " But can I " question, we have moved our liberation one step further. Realness and authenticity come from the heart. By embracing our ORNAMENTAL Selves we gain much more in Truth rather than what we loose by the rejection of others. Someone much greater than I, your humble servant to fashion, once said..."To Thine Own Self Be True". Now go out there and rock your world!
BABY BOOMERS: Reboot + Rebrand
Common conversation nowadays with baby boomers is the fact that we possess vast quantities of experience and knowledge. However, after 15 or 20 years in the same routine it's time for a change. But where? How? Trapped like a deer in headlights we find ourselves not paralyzed, but stymied. We know we have great wealth to share but making an attempt to first organize, select and identify who we are and what our brand is, is like scrambling out from fallen boulders. Best thing to do is just lay there with all this information and experience piled on top of you. Oh, and breath! Take many breathes.
First step in re-booting is assessment; what we have done, how we did it and what are the milestones in our careers. Think about what you love doing and never had enough time to do it and where it can become a vital service to others or other businesses. Identify yourself and your vision. Jot it down, take notes and edit it. Second step is to select your top material. Whether it was commercially successful or you personally felt it was a triumph, give it the credit it deserves. With years of dossiers, photographs, marketing plans or sketches there are always those triumphs which hold 1st. and 2nd. places and our favoritism to them will probably never change. Third step is to develop an internal structure of comrades to support you in your vision and help you in moving the boulder cross the finish line. People who believe in you and you in them. Life is a give and take relationship. And remember......it's never done alone. Lastly, don't forget to KISS IT....keep it simple stupid!
Good Luck and Happy Rebooting.
Fold here....................
and here..............and here.............and here........if only it were that simple. Creating multiple folds and undulating asymmetric layers may be easy when playfully draping, but it's complicated and calculated putting it into a wearable and functional garment. The artistic nuances one stumbles upon by draping must be realized for production requiring hours of precision patternmaking to make it look effortlessly organic. Whether the draping is created by hand, flat sketching or illustrator it requires diligence to look haphazardly graceful ask Charles James, ha!